The Boston Globe

Short Orders

ALISON ARNETT AND SHERYL JULIAN

GOOD TO GO

Visit the great Wall

Good Chinese food, it seems, calls for a knack with the fry pan that not everyone has. Though it's little more than a wok and a counter, Food Wall has many fans among its Jamaica Plain neighbors.

At this oddly named restaurant, a cook holds a wok over a burner that looks like the back of a jet engine. The heat is scorching, but the pan's contents are in rapid motion as he tosses and scrapes with impressive dexterity. The result is steaming hot, crisp vegetables in a simple but good sauce. Tossed with roast pork, Food Wall's Chinese vegetables ($4.15 with rice) emerge in a cloud of steam.

GALEN MOORE

Food Wall is at 387 Centre St., Jamaica Plain, 617-524-6636